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Industry Tips

Modeling

Each year, many young men and women travel to major metropolitan areas to seek their fortunes as models. This information is designed to give you, the prospective model, an overview of the modeling industry, tips on how to decide whether you really want modeling as a career, suggestions on how to choose a modeling manager, and guidelines on how to distinguish reputable from non-reputable managers.

Let's take a moment to define the difference between employment agencies and modeling managers. The responsibility of an employment agency is to match an employer with the appropriate candidate for an available job. The agency's relation with both employer and employee terminates when the job has been filled. Managers, on the other hand, maintain an on-going relationship with their clients who, in this case, are models. They help direct all facets of models' careers, from start to finish. A manager would not only get bookings for a model, but also give advice on personal appearance, development of a portfolio, and the general direction of a model's career.

Virtually all models work through managers. Occasionally, models new to the field will obtain bookings on their own (freelancing). By and large, however, most clients (department stores, designer showrooms, etc.) prefer to book models through a manager, who will make sure the model is on time and prepared for the bookings. You may work daily for long hours, or your jobs may be spaced out at infrequent intervals. You should be prepared for both types of situations. And be sure to budget carefully for "slow" periods, because you must pay for your own living expenses (rent, food, utilities, clothes, hair care and make-up).

Modeling is a hard profession to break into. Even if you are one of the few accepted by a reputable manager, estimates vary on the percentage of these models able to support themselves on modeling alone in any given year. In a survey of New York-based management firms, principals gave figures ranging from 40-85%. Many factors---luck, the "look" in demand, and your manager's skills, just to name a few, may make the difference between success and failure. One year, managers may want only "girl-next-door" types but may desire more exotic looking models the next. Of course, different managers may prefer different types of models in any given year. If you meet the basic physical requirements outlined later, but are rejected by one manager, don't hesitate to try another. But if you try several reputable managers and are not accepted by any of them, you may want to ask why. Based on the answer, you may wish to reconsider your choice of career.

General Guidelines

There are different kinds of modeling: "high-fashion", which also may include runway and showroom modeling, product or "specialized" modeling, and children's modeling.

High Fashion Modeling

"High fashion" modeling means modeling designer clothes, whether at fashion shows or in magazines and newspapers. If you wish to do this sort of work, you must meet these requirements:

Female Models:

Height: 5'7-1/2" - 5'9-1/2"
Weight: 108-125 lbs., from minimum to maximum height, respectively
Eyes: Must be widely spaced
Skin: Must be clear of blemishes, scars and Birthmarks Hair: Must be in good condition Neck: Should be relatively long and swanlike Posture: Model should carry herself gracefully Legs: Should be long, especially the distance from the knee to the ground

Entire look of body should be well-proportioned and trim.

Male Models:

Height: 5'11" - 6'2"
Weight: 140-165 lbs., from minimum to maximum height, respectively
Suit size: 39-40 regular
Shirt: 15-15-1/2 neck, 32-34 sleeve
Waist: 29"-32"
In-seam: 33"-36"
Skin: Must be clear of blemishes, scars and birthmarks
Hair: Must be in good condition
Posture: Model should carry himself well
Legs: Should be long, especially the distance from the knee to the ground

Entire look of body should be well-proportioned and trim.

Determine whether you meet these requirements. Be honest with yourself; a candid self-appraisal now may save disappointment later.

Runway/Showroom Modeling

The requirements for high-fashion models may also apply in this case. However, ready-to-wear houses also hire models to show clothes to prospective buyers in a manufacturer's showroom. Height and weight requirements may vary with the type of apparel shown. For example, women under 5'3" may be hired to model petite fashions. Or, manufacturers who produce larger-size clothes will require a different type of model.

Product or Specialized Modeling

Some businesses may use shots of different parts of a model's body in ads for specialized products; for example, only hands for hand lotion commercials, only legs for panty hose commercials, etc. Sometimes, advertisers may also use shots only from the neck up for other types of commercials: cigarette ads, cleaning products, food products, etc. The requirements listed earlier would not in all cases apply to candidates for specialized product ads. However, be aware that most agencies use runway, showroom, or high fashion models for product ads, and choose these from their existing roster of models. Very few models build careers solely on specialized modeling.

Children's Modeling

General appearance is the most important factor in children's modeling; sometimes, however, reputable agencies will accept "character" children for placement; these may not necessarily be the most attractive children, in the conventional sense, but children who display a certain kind of personality or animation. Parents who are anxious for their children to become models may respond to direct mail solicitations from model or talent agencies. Often, the child's name has been obtained from hospital birth lists, or other sources, through a list broker. If you receive such a solicitation, it in no way indicates that your child is suitable for modeling. Check with your local BBB whenever you receive such direct mail solicitations from unfamiliar firms. They may be no more than promotions for the services of a particular photographer.

Once you decide to enter the field

 

How to Choose a Manager

Virtually all successful models obtain jobs through modeling managers. Select the names of several managers from the telephone book, or obtain names from friends and other reliable sources. Then, call the Better Business Bureau closest to you to check the BBB's report on the firm. Go only to managers you know are reputable. Following is a summary of what a manager will expect you to pay for, after you have been accepted. Shop comparatively for the best price.

 

  1. A portfolio (or "book") is a collection of pictures of you. It should be taken to every "go-see" (i.e., a type of "job interview" for a modeling booking.) It is hard to estimate the initial cost of a portfolio. To begin your career, you may use test shots taken at minimal cost by one or several photographers anxious to build their own books. This, however, may take several months. If your manager advises you to compile your portfolio more quickly, he/she will recommend a good photographer, who will have his own price list. This may be more expensive. In the case of child modeling, parents should update the child's portfolio and resume when any changes occur in the child's appearance (loss of a tooth, growth, etc.)

     

  2. A "card" or "composite" is one or more pictures of yourself and a resume. The picture/s can be taken from your portfolio. Your manager will recommend a reputable printer who will make up a card for you at a reasonable fee. The fee will cover a specified number of black and white printed cards, with one or more pictures of you and your vital statistics. This card should be left at every firm to which you are sent on a "go-see." New models need not spend a large amount initially for elaborate cards. However, your card should represent you in the most flattering way possible. Along with your portfolio, your card is the most important piece of information about you.

     

  3. A resume is a summary of basic facts about you: height, weight, coloring, age, clothing sizes, and the name of your manager. In addition, you should list your professional skills and any past modeling experience. Shop comparatively for the best price.

     

  4. A headsheet is a collection of pictures and names of models who work through one particular manager. The sheet is distributed to prospective clients. Virtually all managers charge their models to be included on a headsheet, but costs vary widely. Be sure to determine the fee before you agree to be put on the headsheet. A manager should obtain your consent before including you.

     

  5. Union requirements: Any model who makes more than one television commercial is required to join a union. Initiation fees vary from $250-$500, with semi-annual dues at $15-$25. These are approximate figures; your manager will provide you will more specific information on unions, or will direct you to the appropriate source. Models who work only on print jobs or who do runway/showroom modeling and high fashion modeling are not required to join a union.

You will have to finance your own living expenses. Make sure that you can support yourself until you begin to make money from modeling jobs. You will be responsible for financing your own transportation, food expenses, hair and make-up. And remember, you must make your own living arrangements.

Procedure

After you choose the manager/s you wish to approach, check to determine whether you must send a photograph or snapshot first, or can simply visit the manager (usually only during certain hours.) If the manager requires a photograph, you may send snapshots or more professionally-done photos. Most reputable children's managers will ask parents to send in a snapshot of the child before making an appointment. All models should specify the birthdate, height, weight, clothing sizes, and hair and eye color on a typed resume which is attached to the back of the photograph. If a manager feels you have potential, he/she will ask to see you, to do further screening and perhaps offer a contract. If a manager does not contact you within a reasonable time, you may wish to inquire about the manager's appraisal of you.

When you visit a manager's office as a walk-in, you will first see the receptionist, who will screen you initially to determine whether you meet basic requirements. If you do, the receptionist will refer you to an interviewer. If this person, in turn, feels you have potential, you will be sent to a photographer recommended by the manager. The head of a large, reputable New York firm stresses that no legitimate manager will charge a prospective model to have test shots taken. The photographer, however, may require that you pay for the film and the costs of developing it. If the photos turn out well, you may be invited to contract with the manager to represent you. (Be prepared to make the investments discussed above.) Once accepted by a manager, you will be sent on "go-sees" for modeling bookings.

No legitimate agency takes an advance fee (whether it's called a "registration" fee, "consultation" fee, or called by another name.)

Generally, reputable managers will deduct from 10% to 20% commission for television commercials from your wages after you have completed a job. For print ads, the manager will take 15% to 20% commission. Some managers pay models shortly after a job is completed; other models must wait until the client pays the manager. In either case, the manager's commission is deducted before you are paid. Be sure to ask which payment method your manager uses. Also, make certain you understand the daily rate which the manager charges clients, and determine the amount of commission the manager will deduct from that rate before paying you. Be sure to inquire about the length of time between the completion of a job assignment and receipt of your wages. In general, find out as much as you can about the business practices of a manager while at the initial interview.

A note on taxes:

For tax purposes, keep careful records of all your earnings and expenses from year to year. Your manager can provide detailed advice.

Modeling Contracts

Some managers do not have formal written agreements. Others have contracts which may be terminated easily by either party, and still others have contracts which bind the parties for a definite period of time. If a manager uses a contract, ask for a copy and show it to a lawyer before you sign. If you don't have or know of a reputable lawyer, bar associations usually have referral services to provide you with names.

 

  1. All oral representations made in person by the manager should be incorporated into the contract itself.

     

  2. Check the duration of the contract.

     

  3. Ask whether your manager will allow you to work for other agencies during the duration of your contract.
Warning signs of non-reputable manager or modeling promoter

A non-reputable manager often:

 

  • Charges an advance fee or "registration" fee;

     

  • Places nonspecific ads in "Help Wanted" columns in daily and Sunday newspapers, usually stating "M/F, No experience necessary."

     

  • Uses a name which sounds similar, but it is not identical to a well-known studio or manager, causing you to think that the two might be related;

     

  • Displays pictures of famous models or celebrities on the walls who are actually not represented by that manager. Ask whether the manager actually represents and gets jobs for the models in these photos;

     

  • Schedules appointments for after-work hours, sometimes in the principal's home, or a place other than a regular business office;

     

  • Pressures you to leave a deposit (usually in cash) or pressures you to sign a contract immediately;

     

  • Avoids answering questions concerning specific types of assignments for which you might be used.

     

  • While it is true that all models will need to have photographs made at some point, non-reputable managers will often high-pressure you to have these made immediately, through a specific photographer. Usually, such managers require you to leave a deposit for the photographs, and require you to pay the balance before you ever see the photos. Some non-reputable managers make their money on photograph fees alone. Non-reputable children's managers also engage in this practice.

If you have a complaint

 

  • If there is a delay in getting paid (beyond a reasonable amount of time), contact the government agency responsible in your area.
  • If you experience a delay in receiving your portfolio, contact your local Better Business Bureau and the photographer concerned.
  • The Attorney General's office can also be helpful in mediating complaints which involve violations of the law.
  • If sexually harassed in a manager's office, contact the Sex Crimes Unit of your local police department. Don't be embarrassed and don't hesitate to file a complaint. If sexually harassed on the job, contact the manager who placed you, the Sex Crimes Unit, or your local precinct.

Investigate before you visit or sign

Perhaps the best way to prevent an unpleasant and costly experience with a manager is to check the business performance record of the firm before you sign a contract. Call the Better Business Bureau in the city in which the manager is located to check the firm's report. If the firm is not listed in current BBB files, you may be asked for the company name, address and phone number, which will help us develop further information.

Even the very best agencies are constantly on the lookout for fresh, new faces. If you should be stopped on the street or in a public place by a person who claims to be or represent a modeling manager, ask for a business card with name, address and phone number of the manager. Do not give out personal information about yourself until you have had a chance to find out more information about the manager. Check with your local BBB for the business performance record of the manager in question.

A Final Word

Trust your instincts. Sometimes you just know when a business deal seems beneficial, or on the other hand, possibly harmful. Check with your parents, and with friends who have had similar experiences.

If you meet the basic requirements for a model, and you want sincerely to pursue this as a career, remember that it takes time and hard work to achieve success. Don't be discouraged. Newly-successful models appear each year, and the next could be you.